Grand Canyon, Bright Angel trail to river

The first hike into the Grand Canyon, via Bright Angel trail. Given that Bryce was a killer hike, I knew that the Grand Canyon would be even worse, so I stuck with the established trail made for the tourists and mule trains. It had a "safehouse" containing water and shade and sometimes a restroom at the 1 1/2 and 3 mile points. Each of these points marked about a 1,000 foot drop in elevation. Just starting the hike, we had to wait for a mule train that was stopped before going down, and was blocking the trail. We were upset over the 15 minute wait, but I realized that the mule driver was intentionally holding us up so he would have a clear trail, since the mules were faster than we were. The trail was steep, and had considerable loose rock and dirt, so I was tired after only one mile. Then I saw three park rangers right before the 1 1/2 mile safehouse. Oh, No. You can always tell how hard and dangerous a trail is by how many park rangers are on it. Long's Peak in the Rockies only had 2 rangers, this one has 3! As they check out everyone's plans, one asks me, "How far are you going?" I laugh nearly hysterically, "Not Far," and explain, "Last year I did the famous 20 mile Paintbrush Canyon-Cascade Canyon, 4,000 foot climb in the Tetons in one day, only 9 hours. But this trail is already harder!" They responded, "I wish you could tell all these other people that. They ignore us, and then have to be rescued." At this point, though, I catch my second wind, and hike down to the 3 mile point. Actually, in addition to the heat and the steepness and the slippery trail, I was worn out by the inexperienced hikers in the first two miles, who would go down the trail too fast. One distracted me, and I slipped and almost walked off the trail. Henceforth, I always came to a complete stop, moved to the side, and let the idiots pass me. After two miles there were fewer tourists, so that made it easier for me. At the three mile safehouse, you have now descended 2,000 feet. The next mile and a half is a pure desert heat environment, and the park service recommends NOT hiking on it in a day hike in the summer. I made it down okay, and got to Indian Gardens, which is a plateau 3,000 feet below the rim with trees providing shade and many resting hikers. I have lunch (two apples and a salty snack-- salt is as essential as water in the Southwest), and fight off the squirrels who keep attacking my pack seeking food. This is a trial hike to see if I can get halfway down the Canyon, and I have succeeded, so I start back up the trail, and notice a thermometer in the ground which reads 97 degrees. Once again, my umbrella is a lifesaver, as I slowly make my way up the trail. Late in the afternoon now, the 3-mile safehouse, the only shade around, is filled with hikers and two park rangers (apparently, they will walk out with people having difficulties late in the day when it is cooler). A half-mile further up the trail, I am passed by a mule train, and I hear the leader talking on a cellphone to a park ranger: "Yeah, she's in great pain. I don't see how she made it this far back up the trail." About a half-mile later I am approached by a park ranger hiking down the trail carrying a crutch in each hand. (The lady with the sprained ankle actually did make it out on crutches, despite a 2 mile climb on this steep, uneven trail, I learned the next day.) I speed past the 1 1/2 mile safehouse, and now come upon a woman and her 12-year old son who are exhausted, about one mile from the rim. I walk slowly with them, give them encouragement, and get them out of the canyon. They have hiked as far as I have, despite having much less experience, so I compliment them. "I worry about my nephew and father, though. They were hiking all the way to the Colorado River and back in one day," the lady confides. As I make it back to the top, I notice that I have drank a record high (for me) six quarts of water, hiked only 9 miles, but did it in only 6 1/2 hours, in the low range for time estimated by the park service for this trail. The next morning I learn that the day was so hot that several people had to be rescued from inside the canyon by helicopter, due to heat stroke, dehydration, or whatever. They will each be charged about $3,000 for the expense.

A second hike on Bright Angel trail. The next day, I plan to hike 1 1/2 miles beyond Indian Garden to Plateau Point, since I felt fine the day before. I encounter a lady park ranger hiking down to the 1 1/2 mile safehouse, who is checking with every hiker and suggesting more limited hikes. She recommends against my going beyond Indian Gardens, given the heat. I notice that it is indeed hotter than yesterday, as I have to use my umbrella after only one mile, even though I started out a half-hour earlier. When I meet her a second time (she had raced ahead of me) at the 1 1/2 mile safehouse, I tell her about my changed plans, to only go to Indian Gardens, and she is delighted. As I get to Indian Gardens at the 4 1/2 mile point, I notice that the thermometer now reads 102 degrees. I have lunch, and after only 30 minutes it is now up to 104. The smart thing to do is to wait until 4 PM to hike up, as the ranger indicated, since the trail is then in shade. But I want to test my condition in hot weather, so I hike up in the heat of the day. It is so severe that I have to walk very slowly upward, and take a break at every little slice of shade available from overhanging rock faces. At the 3-mile safehouse, I share my sunscreen with a guy who didn't bring any. After a half mile, I am passed by a different park ranger, who is on his way down to the 3-mile safehouse to babysit the tourists. I notice that he is breathing hard, and is sweating. So they have different shifts of rangers; one shift hikes down to the 1 1/2 mile safehouse in the morning, and then walks out at noon, making a 3 mile hike; the other shift hikes down to the 3-mile safehouse, and then hikes out in the cooler evening, making a 6 mile hike. I am hiking 9 miles! More than these experienced, well conditioned park rangers. I am now walking nearly as slowly as someone climbing the top of Everest, gasping for breath, sweating out of every pore in my body. At the 1 1/2 mile safehouse, I start catching up to other people trying to ascend in the heat of the day. They are worn out, covered with sweat, nearly dying before my very eyes. I finally reach the top, and notice I have consumed 7 quarts (I only carried 6, but filled up at a water stop), a personal high, and taken 8 hours to hike only 9 miles, one of my slowest hikes. That's how tough this trail is in the summer! But at least I made it halfway down the Grand Canyon on my first trip out here. One unanticipated problem I had that may have contributed to the slow time was that my two trailmix packages were "unsalted," so need in future to test food before a hike.

A third hike, the next year. On my very first day here, I attempt the brutal 16 mile and 9,000 feet elevation change hike on Bright Angel Trail from the South Rim to the Colorado River and back in one day. It is a month earlier than two years ago, therefore cooler. Plus, I am lucky to hit a cold wave, and I start hiking at 6:30 in the morning. The first three miles is so cool that I have to wear a jacket, scarf, and stocking cap. It is also uncrowded and absent of mule trains and park rangers. In addition to park rangers usually stationed at the traihead to warn hikers, they now have numerous signs warning people not to attempt the round trip hike to the Colorado River and back in one day. They also have a picture of a young male in good physical shape, and say that "This is the typical kind of person we have to rescue!" I talk to hikers coming up the trail, and they indicate that the helicoper we see landing at Indian Garden is rescuing two young men who attempted to make the round trip hike to the river, but who hiked back up too fast and collapsed. This report is unconfirmed, however, since the helicopters are also carrying equipment to repair the motor that generates fresh water. We also spot two endangered California Condors in the bushes below the trail. At the 4 1/2 mile point at Indian Garden, I begin to go further than I ever have. The trail now is very interesting, as you hike down a cliff side and a canyon-like tributary. You then hit a sharp dropoff, and a whole new series of switchbacks that look like the top of the Paintbrush-Cascade Teton trails linkup. I now realize the risk of climbing down 4,500 feet and finding yourself at the bottom, nearly 8 miles from civilization, and having to hike up this immense distance in the heat of the day. After reaching the bottom I'm tempted to turn back, but a hiker coming from the other direction tells me that I'm nearly at the river. Sure enough, I reach the river and take a break for an energy bar. The water is nice and cool, other people are relaxing there, and we see a large raft go by. It is about 95 degrees here. I start back up, and feel strong enough that I rock climb about 50 feet down the sharp dropoff. I roll a boulder the size of a basketball down the cliff, and it picks up speed fast, and shatters upon hitting the bottom. This is a warning of what can happen to any climber who isn't careful in finding good footholds and handholds. I stop ten feet from the bottom due to the absence of good holds, and climb up a different route. Stopping a few minutes at Indian Garden, I feel well enough to do my 30 pullups (over 3 sets) from the roof of a picnic table structure. I had planned to break for hours at this oasis if it was too hot and I was too tired, but it is only about 85 degrees and I feel fine. I walk up to the 3 mile safehouse, and see the park ranger stationed there with a group of people who are worn out, and who he will hike out with when it gets cooler. I continue my hike to the 1 1/2 mile safehouse and talk with the park ranger stationed there to check out hikers. She said they had to rescue a woman at Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon, who rolled out of her bunk bed and hurt her shoulder. I continue to the top, completing a 16 mile hike (including the walk to the car) in 10 hours, having consumed 6 quarts of water, two energy bars, and two bags of salted peanuts. The next day is an off day for me, so I stay on the rim and hike the Rim Trail for about 13 miles, while also spending a hour or two rock climbing on boulders and cliffs on the edge of the canyon.